Verdun, June 2003
Jerome Rosen
“One death is a tragedy; a million deaths is a statistic.”Iosef Vissarionovich Djugashvili, aka Stalin
Provincial town, gray day, a taste of iron
In the air. I ask directions in a pharmacy
Selling soap, candy bars, People magazine in French,
Diet pills and other common things.
I drive;
On the tourist road to storied places
Heavy rain attacks, as often
In this Meuse country (so the natives say).
I recognize the scene
From photographs in histories:
Fort Douamont,
Museum, riddle, tomb.
Upon the glacis, gently sloping killing field,
Grass has grown in eighty-seven years;
Yet easy even now to see
The shell-scarred earth beneath,
Scars of wounds the grass can shield
But never heal.
In the damp bowels of the fort, I walk;
Tunnels arch to dim distance,
Cruel air bites, chills, naked bulbs
Glow pallid, wan above my head, dirty water
Seeps on rust-stained walls, a ghost of blood
To trickle down the concrete floor in gutters.
I make no echoes.
I wonder on the men behind the names
Of Frenchman, German, on the mildewed wall,
Whom they cursed or prayed to as they died,
Whom they loved, whom they left to mourn…
Unease trembles in these halls, my throat is tight.
If I take another step
Into this grim labyrinth
I will be lost; I make retreat.
The rain at least is clean, and I must breathe.
I drive;
There the Ossuary, last unhomely home
To many random tens of thousands unnamed bones.
At night (I’ve read) a great white light above the massive pile
Probes the unquiet silence restlessly—
For consolation, explanation never to be found?
I drive;
More signs, a plaque, a village utterly destroyed,
The single fragment left: A shard of chapel bell.
I drive again; a granite block marks a troop of poilus buried by the shells,
Aligned with bayonets erect, at the ready in this trench
For near a century.
And then I break. Here there is too much
For me; I am burdened by a weight
I cannot see, larger, larger than
This stone, this sanctified obscenity.
Everywhere I look the shelled ground writhes,
Like blasted billows on a frozen sea—
What response could be? Poems? Hymns
Of praise to battle gods? Elegies
To souls anonymous? I cannot compass
Hundred thousands maimed, bodies ground
To dust by blind barrage, blast-vaporized,
Gassed, in rain-filled shell holes drowned,
Or vanished in the suck of mud, or living—
Could you call it that?—condemned to dream
Of steaming viscera in garlands on
The shattered trees, the fouled remains of what
In other days had been whole human beings.
Tired, I have no words to mourn what
Men inflicted,
Men endured, how
Men submitted to the flail of war, implacable
Upon this patch of tortured land
For nothing gained, and still no one can tell us why
Twenty-thousand score or more might die
Unpersoned, in the modern way.
I wish it all undone, this maleficent fancy of a God deranged,
But that is not to be.
It is. It is no fantasy.
The tumor nourished in this place
Still befouls the world, entwines
The lives of myriads who have never heard
The doleful word
“Verdun.”
I, too, was wounded here. And you.
I drive away, past graveyards sown by greater wars.
The gentle dusk is rising in the shallow vales.
Passing of the villages is marked
By toll of vesper-bells,
Vestiges of fire dying,
In a sad twilight.
An endless question hovers in the metalled air
Beneath the steel-cold steady stars, that do not care.